Understanding Underlying Pigment: Why Ash Matters in Permanent Hair Color

One of the biggest reasons hair color doesn’t turn out as expected is underlying pigment. Even with the right shade number on the box, permanent color behaves differently on every head of hair, and understanding what’s happening underneath makes all the difference.

At Shade Society, this is one of the most important concepts we teach clients before coloring.

What Is Underlying Pigment?

Underlying pigment is the natural warmth that lives inside your hair. When permanent color lifts the hair, it doesn’t remove all pigment evenly—it reveals these warm tones underneath.

Depending on your natural level, underlying pigment can appear as:

• Red

• Red-orange

• Orange

• Yellow-orange

• Yellow

This warmth is always present—it just becomes visible once the hair is lifted.

How Permanent Color Works

Permanent hair color does two things:

1. Lifts natural pigment

2. Deposits new tone

When the hair lifts, it exposes underlying warmth. If the formula doesn’t properly account for that warmth, it can show through as brassiness, orange tones, or unwanted warmth, even if the chosen shade looks “cool” on paper.

This is why permanent color requires careful formulation.

Why Ash Tones Are So Important

Ash tones are designed to neutralize warmth. They contain cool pigments that counteract the underlying pigment revealed during lifting.

For example:

• Blue tones neutralize orange

• Violet tones neutralize yellow

• Green tones neutralize red

Choosing the correct ash level ensures the final color looks balanced, natural, and intentional, rather than brassy or muddy.

Examples of ash colors

What Happens When Ash Is Missing

Without the proper amount of ash in a permanent color formula, you may experience:

• Excessive warmth at the roots

• Orange or yellow tones showing through

• Inconsistent color from roots to ends

• A shade that looks warmer than expected

This is especially common when coloring lighter or covering gray.

Why One Shade Doesn’t Work for Everyone

Two people choosing the same shade can end up with completely different results because:

• Their underlying pigment is different

• Their hair lifts at different speeds

• Previous color or lightening affects exposure

Professional formulation accounts for all of these variables, not just the target shade.

Why Professional Guidance Makes the Difference

Understanding underlying pigment takes training and experience. During a Shade Society consultation, we assess:

• Your natural level

• Your hair history

• How much lift is needed

• Which underlying tones will be exposed

From there, we customize the formula with the correct balance of ash and tone to prevent unwanted warmth.

The Takeaway

Permanent color doesn’t simply “turn hair a new shade”, it reveals what’s underneath. Understanding underlying pigment is the key to predictable, professional results.

At Shade Society, we focus on formulation, education, and guidance, so your color looks intentional, balanced, and beautiful every time.